South Africa thoughts

Cape Town:
This has to be among the most beautiful cities in the world – Table Mountain towers over the city, the Atlantic Ocean surrounds it, Cape of Good Hope is just down the road, plus the gorgeous ladies of mixed ethnicities. I visited Robben Island last Friday. It’s the prison island near Cape Town where the Apartheid government kept Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners. My tour guide was one of the prisoners there. A couple of sobering thoughts: Why did so many South Africans (especially the church) keep so quiet for so many years at the incredible injustice that Apartheid represented? Am I guilty of such inaction regarding other things that I know are happening in this world?

Johannesburg:
This is perhaps the most dangerous city in the world. Since the end of Apartheid, violent crimes such as car-jackings, kidnappings, and armed robberies have skyrocketed. Supposedly, most offenders are from the townships, whose inhabitants during Apartheid had limited access to white districts. I wonder how much more violence is necessary before the rich and middle class will finally get around to advocating for changes to the social welfare of the townships. Does this violence indirectly represent a long-suppressed cry for help? Some are saying that they need more policing (to add to the metal bars, barbwire, and guards that make their homes look more like prisons) – though I wonder if the solution instead lies in improvements in education, employment, and social services for the townships. Albeit, I've only been here for 5 days, so take it for what it's worth.

Observations

As I finish my time here in Angola, some interesting observations over the past 5 weeks:

The Fashion: if you just look at the T-shirts worn in this city, you’d think you’re in Canada – lots of T-shirt with emblems of Canadian corporations, a “French Canadian club” shirt, a Calgary Flames shirt, race shirts from every fun run in the country – the reason being that Canadian charities and thrift shops ship their used clothing over here to distribute to local merchants to sell. Most women wear pannus, colorful cloths wrapped around the waist. While men usually wear jeans or pants, in some rural areas you can see men in traditional tribal dresses. Shorts are reserved for the kids, or to go swimming. Dressing nice is very important to most Angolans.

The Weather: due to the altitude of the city, the temperature here is very nice at this time. It is summer here, and also the middle of the rainy season. Nights are 15-20 degrees Celsius, and days are 20-30 degrees. It has rained almost every day I’ve been here, though only for a few hours at a time. When it rains, it usually pours. During the winters, sub-zero temperatures are not uncommon at night, but they don’t see snow, since winter means dry season.

The Language: The Portuguese spoken in Angola is very similar to that spoken in Portugal, and very different than that spoken in Brazil. A Brazilian speaking to an Angolan would be akin to a Aussie speaking to an American with a Southern Drawl. However, Portuguese is the second language for most Angolans, and some of the elderly and those living in rural areas don’t speak a word of it. There are many different tribes in Angola, and Lubango features a convergence of tribes, being the biggest city in Southern Angola. The Umbundu is the largest tribe, representing over 50% of Angolans, and is the language I would learn if I stayed here longer.

The Goods: You can buy almost anything here that you can buy in Canada, except that all imported goods are double the price back home. This is mostly due to shipping costs, plus the horrible roads from the Namibia border which taxes the trucks greatly. The praças are places where there are hundreds of booths in which merchants set up shop to sell anything from underwear to charcoal to carrots to electric cables. Most foods that are grown locally are cheap, including various meats, vegetables, grains, and fruits. For those who prefer to get their shopping done a little quicker, there are supermarkets where both imported and local stuff are sold.

The Transport: Most people get around by foot. Walking several kilometers are day is part of daily life. For those not wanting or able to walk, “taxis” are available and ubiquitous – blue and white Toyota vans that are supposed to seat 7, but I’ve seen more than 15 crammed in. They stop at various locations depending on what route they are on (you don’t know the route until you ask, and the driver sets the route depending on demand). They cost the equivalent of $0.70 USD per trip. The most popular private cars are SUV’s, and in this city they are needed, as potholes line the city. There is not a single functioning traffic light in this city of over 300,000, so oftentimes the biggest car goes first.

Return Itinerary

Yesterday was my last day in Angola. I will write a wrap-up blog sometime soon. My return adventure:

Feb 3: Lubango – Windhoek – Cape Town (stay 4 days)
Feb 7: Cape Town – Johannesburg (stay 2 days)
Feb 9-10: Johannesburg – London – Vancouver
February 12: Vancouver – Seattle – Philadelphia – Charlotte – Winston Salem